For thousands of years, the only way to travel in Greenland was by sledges pulled by dogs and by kayaks and seal-skin boats called umiaks. Things are different today, of course. Sledges still skate over the ice and snow, pulled by Greenland's most infamous animal dweller, the Greenland sledge dog. Polaris snowmobiles, however, are more likely to be used in modern Greenland.

Forget about driving. The only roads are found in the few cities on the coast. All told, there are only 150 kilometers of paved roads, and none linking cities with each other. The true highway of Greenland is the ocean.

A state-run ferry system company called KNI now makes coastal transportation easier for locals and visitors. Three powerful boats ("Sarfaq Ittuq," "Sarpik Ittuk," "Saqqit Ittuk") link Greenland's isolated west coast communities from Upernavik in the north to Qaqortoq in the south. KNI also runs smaller ferries for short hauls, connecting Narsasuaq to Nanortalik, and beyond. These boats include the "Aleqa Ittuk," the "Polar Fox," the "Sapangaq," and the "Saqqit Ittuk."

During my travels in the summers of 1998 and 1999, I rode two of KNI's larger ferries (the "Sarfaq Ittuk" and "Sarpik Ittuk") between Nuuk, Kangerlussuaq, and Sisimiut. Further south, I boarded the smaller boats, such as the "Polar Fox" and "Aleqa Ittuk." Riding the ferries is a wonderful way to see Greenland's stunningly gorgeous coast and fjords. It's also one of the best ways to meet local residents. During the busy summer months, local residents use the ferries frequently to visit family and friends who are separated by some of the world's roughest, least-hospitable terrain. I highly recommend that visitors sail down Søndre Strømfjord, via the main airport gateway of Kangerlussuaq, on the west coast. (Most visitors from North America and Europe arrive by plane in Greenland at Kangerlussuaq. Some cheaper flights that connect to the capital, Nuuk, are possible from Iceland.)

Finally, one can fly around Greenland with Greenland Airlines (Grønlandsfly). The airline (run by SAS, the Danish Government, and the Home Rule government of Greenland) employs small Bell helicopters, Sikorsky helicopters, Dash-7 fixed-wing prop planes, a Boeing 757, and other aircraft. In July 1999 I rode a Sikorsky helicopter. The trip was breathtaking as it passed over fjords and icebergs that were larger than three-story apartment buildings.

I also flew in and and around Greenland on a Dash-7, a delightful plane ideally suited to land on short runways. Luggage was stored in front of my seat in an open area behind the cockpit. I had several memorable flights over the massive icefield of Greenland's interior. During one trip, I landed on a slim dirt runway on the east coast city of Kulusuk, where I took the picture below. I also travelled by Dash-7 the length of southwest Greenland, flying over fjords and granite cliffs. You won't regret any trip by plane. (See the Greenland map, courtesy of the University of Texas library system.)

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Copter Commuting

Sikorsky helicopters help link Greenland's farflung communities on the island's west coast.

Qaqortoq Harbor

In Greenland, boat ownership is the norm.

Greenland Sledges

Sledges helped Greenland's Inuit residents colonize the whole island, beginning more than 4,000 years ago.

Greenland Airlines Workhorse

The Canadian-built Dash-7 fixed-wing prop plane can land on Greenland's small runways, like this gravel strip on the east coast town of Kulusuk.

Greenland Ferries

The "Sarfaq Ittuk," foreground, and "Sarpik Ittuk" sit in the Nuuk harbor just before the busy summer travel season begins.

'Aleqa Ittuk,' Pride of Southwest Greenland

The "Aleqa Ittuk" ferry carries passengers among the communities along the fjords of southwest Greenland.

Guiding the 'Aleqa Ittuk'

The captain of the "Aleqa Ittuk" ferry guides his ship through a fjord connecting the towns of Narsaq and Narsasuaq.